Okay, what we'll going to be doing in this article here today is we're going to be checking the rear bearing, the idler pulley and the blower wheel on this clothes dryer. And the reason we'd be doing that is we're checking for a squealing noise that's really annoying. So let's get started with today's Austin appliance repair tips from www.austinappliancemasters.com.
This is a GE style washer dryer, so remove the lid. Okay, we started up by opening the door, these to screws,, we'll remove those. Okay, now next thing we want to do is we want to lift up on this in a little bit of an angle slide it sideways, there's 3 hooks in there, we want to slide it sideways and then pull it down a little bit.
Okay, now there are 2 screws back here, we want to take those out and before we do that we want to close this door up, we're going to support the front with that with that knee, and we don't want it to fall off the front bearing. We're going to support the drum, we're going tilt this forward and set the drum down and there's 2 hooks down there, we're going to have to lift this up the hooks and be careful there's a not a lot of wire here.
Okay, so this is our door switch here, we got 3 wires going up to it, we want to unplug this and then we're going to disconnect the other terminals there. We want to use needle nose so we don't rip the wire out the terminal.
The next thing we want to do is we want to check this blower wheel down here to see if it's operating right but we got the belt connected so what we going to need to do is disconnect the belt. Now to do that you need to push the idler pulley this way to release the tension off the belt so you can get it but the space is kind of tight to get your arm in there so what I'm going to do is I'm going to remove this screw, there's a screw on top here, I'm going to take that out and then on the back of the dryer, I'm going to take out all the screws, all the way down to the bottom. I'm going to leave the bottom screw in but I'm going to loosen that.
I'm also going to loosen this screw but I'm not going to take it out, that's the very bottom screw just close so I can move this panel, so I can my arm in there. Okay now that we have this loosened up, we can get our hand in there and we can release the tension off the belt. Okay, we got the dryer belt loose, so now what we want to do now this will spin free and we can't hear any noise we're going to try to wiggle it to see if there's any play in there and there isn't any and you want to pull it back and forth too.
So there's no noise coming from this, next I want to take my finger and want to spin this idler wheel to see if I can hear any noise which I don't.
So then the last thing we want to do is we want to take look at that rear bearing. Okay, now plug this drum out, we got to spread it apart a bit here, we 're going grab it right by the belt, it's the best way to do this and just support it in the front, grab a hold of the belt and you want to pull it straight forward, pull it right out in the opening. Okay, this is the bearing on this type, it's got a little flap here that holds it on and it's a little plastic piece.
There is the maiden piece on the back of the dryer but that's feels. So this is where the problem would be in this little plastic piece here. So all you have to do is pull this little clip up, put your part on it, put the clip back in.
Now, to put this back in there, we want to get our dryer dock in place, where it align from the drum, slide it in, you need to do a little feel on around from that hole. Okay, just slide it right into the hole like that, then set your dock right back down, reach in and put it back around the idler pulley and reassemble. That's all there it is to checking the rear bearing.
Today we’re looking at some of the different things that can contribute to refrigerator problems at home – more specifically, you fridge not cooling the way it’s supposed to. So today we called on the expert advice of some of our very good friends at Appliance Masters in Tucson, AZ (http://appliancerepairtucsonaz.org), and they’re going to walk us through some trouble shooting steps.
You have your overload and your relay for your starting components right in here, what we are going to do is we have a little metal clip holding them on, to take that metal clip off, it hooks on the bottom, wraps around and then hooks on the top so I am going to go ahead and just check and see if I have any problems with the compressor.
So the bottom two pins are showing me about nine, ten but are still fluctuating but the top and the pin closest to me, it’s fluctuating quite a bit, settling right around five, five and a half, so we are pretty close, as far as the winding goes, I will double check them again, this one down here is right at ten. So it is pretty close, I can’t definitely say if it’s a bad compressor cause the windings are showing fairly close where they are supposed to be registering, I am going to now check for continuity on it being shorted to ground.
Alright, so no short to ground, so what we are going to do now is discuss with the customer, options and make a decision on the repair from here, alright, so what we are going to do first is get the starting components pulled back out from the inside of the unit, I am hoping that we can get them out fairly easily and the lines can flex some but you don’t want to bend them too significantly so you get the components back out and you are going to separate them, they are actually two separate pieces.
You are going to reuse this piece right here, this is just basically your overload, we will start relay on this thing, you hear that, the rattle, this relay is bad so I set that aside, I’m not going to put anything back in yet, we’re going to eliminate the plug of this plug that was onto the, starting components, going to peel back these wires a little bit, the use is I’m using a universal starting component kit, it basically works on all compressors for a refrigerator, you use it to follow your directions properly to hook it up and I explain it to you how I’m hooking this one up as we go through, the kit comes with two wire knots and it comes with the starting component.
It is two black wires that are by themselves which are four, the actual power leads that we had stripped back on the unit, has a red, white and black wire that according to the package, the diagram shows exactly which ones to hook it up to, it has your compressor which is as common start, run, it tells you what color wire goes to those plugs or pens of your compressor, so I like to lay it on the floor and since this one has one pin on top and two pins on the bottom, laid out on the ground just like the way that the picture looks, it is on there so I come look and say that the background which is the farthest one from me is the white wire so I’m going to take my white wire.
Today we’ll be looking at a situation where a Frigidaire front load washer isn’t not draining. I recently got a question about just this situation, but with a Whirlpool brand, from a reader who wrote in to http://austinappliancemasters.com saying they needed help with a washer repair in Austin. Since I told him I wasn’t likely to be in Austin any time soon, I said I’d post about my similar experience, and hopefully it’ll help him sort out his own washer problem.
With the machine I was working with, when we put it in to the final spin, get the drain running, it’s just not moving any water, so what we’re going to do is take a shop-vac, we’re going to manually drain out the water from the inside of the tub and then we’re going to go down and try to vacuum the water out as we’re draining it where the sump pokes up to the pump and then get the pump apart, then take a look, see if there is anything in the pump.
Our drain pump is down at the bottom on the side, so we’ll just set that down at the side here, What we’ve got on the other side here, there’s a little clamp that holds the sump to the tub so we’re going to ahead and kind of loosen that and just kind of sort of crack it and hold the shop-vac under and get the rest of the water out.
Alright so we’ve loosened this clamp right here, we’ll do a bit of vacuuming, and now we’re going to go ahead and remove two of those clamps down here; the inlet and the outlet on the pump.
Now we’re going to take the two screws off that hold the pump in place, some 5/16th screws… Now we’ll disconnect our wiring harness here and pull the drain line off, and now we can get a look at our pump.
What we have is that there is something right in there that’s binding up the impellor, so we’re going to go ahead and just try to remove this piece. Now we’re just going to kind of jack that impellor, make sure it’s not broken free… it feels like it’s still okay.
Alright so we’ve checked over the pump, made sure it looks okay and kind of just inspect it and make sure the housing didn’t get cracked or anything from that, piece got shot around down there. It looks okay, so we’re just going to go ahead and wipe up the water down here and reinstall it.
Next, we’re just going to hook our electrical harness back up there and then we’re just going to test it. It’s tests OK, so now we’ve filled it up with water and we’re just going to go ahead and put it at spin cycle to see with the final spin to activate the drain pump and it’s putting the water out just fine now so that’s going to complete your repair, other than we’re just going to put the bottom panel back together of course.
One very common issue people have with their refrigerators when they start to notice that they’re not cooling properly is that a buildup of ice behind the fan. So today we’re going to have a look at what you can do if this occurs to you.
So with this refrigerator, the complaint was that it’s not cooling and the ice maker isn’t working (this diagnostic tip comes from the good guys at www.chicagoappliancemasters.com – when I have questions about appliance issues, these are my go-to guys). So we are going to remove this shelf, this is expandable so push that in and pull that guy out. We’re going to notice that the temperature, it’s cool at best in here, so we’re going to remove the back panel and check out the evaporator and see what the frost pattern looks like.
Okay the tools you’ll need for this repair are a common Philip’s screwdriver and a quarter inch nut driver.
Okay so we’re going to start by removing the ice maker, there’s just a Philip’s screw at the bottom and then two quarter inch screws that mount on the top of the ice maker and you can either take them completely off or just loosen them and then remove the connector. Now we just have the quarter inch bolts that hold the back of the evaporator cover on, take those off and once those are out of the way, we’ll just rotate this guy forward and move it, flip that over and we see what we should have, a nice even distribution of frost.
We have just an ice ball in the upper right hand corner which indicates the sealed system failure and we’ll just recommend to replace this unit. You see, on a good refrigerator, we’ll have a nice even frost distribution on the evaporator. When you see a snowball or frost ball in any of the corners, they just, it indicates the sealed system failure and with the gauge and everything with this model. While it can be fixed, we’ll recommend it be replaced. Okay so for now we’re just going to put this unit back together and will line up the bottom of the fan with the hole, we’ll just lift up the fill tube for the ice maker and get this evaporator cover in place.
Replace our quarter inch mounting bolts and for the ice maker, just get one started and then we’ll get the hook of the back of the ice maker, we’ll plug in the connector, get the fill tube lined up and then just hook the back of the ice maker on for support and install the other mounting screws. Tighten this one up and finish with the Philip screw at the bottom, we’ll put our shelf back in. It’s got this little curve piece that goes in first in the back and then in, slide that out and we’re all back together.