When it comes time to renovate your kitchen, often times it’s good to really think it through and tackle a more complete job than you might initially think of. For example, if you’re going to replace the flooring, maybe you should go ahead and paint the walls and do any kind of ceiling repairs first, since you won’t sweat any issues or mistakes happening to the flooring you’re going to replace. And in the end, you’ll have a kitchen with much more ‘pop’ than if you only did one or two small things.
Ok so, the easy thing or the cool thing about using pop corn type ceiling texturing is you are going to be able to see as it’s applied, you only have about six shots at this so you have got to make sure that you get it right… think everything through before you do it, if it’s not in a corner like this, you want to go all the way around the perimeter and then gather that around, what I have done before is put a rubber band, gather the skirting around the tent, put my hand in the can, put everything inside and then gather that around so it only gets on my arm and not the carpet or furniture or anything like that.
Unfortunately this is a total kitchen remake and haven’t done anything like this before all by myself, but following some tips from FamilyHandyman.com. Still, I am doing this first and then laying tile later on, so it’s hidden, so I am really fortunate to be doing this now. So you want to shake this for about thirty seconds or so, remember the direction is left and right of your finger so it’s gong the same way like this as your finger is so if you want the spray to go back and forth long ways then you are going to have to compensate for that because the spray will only go in the direction if you turn it like this, the spray is going to go this way rather that length wise.
So just get an idea of what to do, now about fourteen inches, I am going to spray like this and that’s about it. So I got four good squirts out of that one, let’s take a look, not bad, not bad at all. So what we are going to do is just go ahead and pull this off now, I am going to keep the thumbtacks handy because I have got to do this again. Let’s go ahead and pull this down, I know the suspense is killing you and you can see that that got on beautifully. It did get on the walls and that’s ok, this is going to be behind a refrigerator and honestly, I would go ahead and pull the thumbtacks out of here and not worry about trying to salvage and use the same thing because I have got an extra sheet so I am just going to pull the thumbtacks out of here to start this.
Now, I do have some leftover in the can and what I am going to do immediately is take this to the sink, wash this out. The reason I do this every time is, if I don’t, it’s going to harden and then I can’t use this can again. So make sure you wash out the clean out and nozzle as well cause this stuff dries pretty quick and so that’s what it’s going to take to repair a pop corn ceiling.
Today we’re looking at all the magic we can make happen by thoroughly planning out our kitchen design on our computer before ever picking up a hammer, saw or paint brush. It allows us to try a multitude of options, get a really good sense of how things will work together and decide what we really want to spend our time and energy on. It allows you to go into kitchen design battle full of confidence!
So to begin with today, I’m going to go ahead and place our commercial range (a great suggestion we got from our friends at Columbus Appliance Masters, so thank you guys!), and I’m going to use a 48” range and click and place that as well as our cook hood.
If I select our range I’m going to use the center tool, and I can actually center that inside of this room. I’ll click and place the center and I’ll do the same thing with the cook hood, use the center and I’ll just get that off of the cook range.
Now those two items are exactly centered in the room, as long as I have my library open I’m also going to place my refrigerator and I’m just going to slide that over off to the left here in front of that window temporarily. Let’s close the 3D view and go in to a wall elevation, I’m also going to close my library.
Our elevation tool is you can take a wall elevation or cross section and it will actually show you all the layers of the floor and ceiling. With our wall elevation camera we’ll just point at the wall we want and take an elevation view, and now you can see the wall elevation pretty clearly. I’m going to place a base cabinet off to the right hand side of our cook range, and if I click on this cabinet I can resize it pretty easily, and if you double click on it you have control over all of the components in here.
The first thing that I’m going to do is mark it to have flat sides, because when I bump it to the cook range I want to make sure that the countertop doesn’t intrude in to the cook top. Let’s go ahead and change the width back to 24”, select okay and I’m going to go ahead and bump that next to the range.
Choosing Cabinet Styles
Now the look I’m after for the base cabinets is to have a sea channel door and draw style. If I double click on this cabinet I can customize this cabinet in a number of ways. If I click on the front of the door and draw style first of all I can change those face items, and on the door and drawer tab here I can come in and choose the style of the door, the hardware and the same for the drawer.
Let’s go ahead and explore using the library and when you open up the library, you can use either the generic custom cabinets from Chief Architect or the manufacturer catalogs. Let’s begin with the custom catalogs from Chief Architect, I’m after the Euro-style base cabinet look so let’s go ahead and select that for our door style.
Let’s remove the hardware in this case since it’s integrated in, and let’s do the same thing for the drawer here. So back in to the library and in to the Chief Architect custom catalog, and we’ll choose that same Euro-style look, change the handle since it’s integrated. Now that I have this changed you’ll see the preview update as I make all the changes on this panel.
Today I’m going to talk to you about how to grout wall tiles. I’m going to start off by showing you all the tools and materials that we need to do this job. We’re going to need a roll of painters masking tape, I prefer the wider stuff, we’re going to need a rubber float for actually pressing the grout into the joints of the tiles, we’re going to need something to stir the grout with, we’ll also need this tool, which is used for cleaning the grout lines out, sometimes after you applied the tiles, there’s going to be some Mastic or thinset between, use this edge to scrape that out of there, so there is room for your grout to go in, clean sponge, a clean bucket with clean cool water in it for rinsing and of course, your grout.
In this case I like to use Quartz Lock product, it’s urethane grout, it’s got pretty superior stain and molding resistance, they recommended it even in showers, but not in a high steam, but showers seem to be fine. Let’s start over, I’m going to use this painter masking tape to mask off the edges on painted surfaces, showers, basically anywhere that I don;t want the grout to stick to, this type of grout dries and tacks up pretty quickly. Simply, it’s pretty basic, decide what you want for reveal here, I’m using about an eighth of an inch, apply your tape and same thing on the edge of the shower in here.
I’m not actually going to be putting grout in this joint, against the shower, but I still want the tape here, just for clean up, so I don’t have to the surface or take a chance of scratching the shower. This will get white kitchen and bath silicone, I’ll use the silicone all the way around. Once you have the masking tape down, with this grout, you want to use your margin trowel and when you first open it up it’s going to have a bit of a milky consistency on the top, just take the trowel, I’ve already mixed this, but take your trowel, mix it around, if you have to use a power mixer or something in your drill, go very slow, you don’t want to get too much air entering there; just mix it up, it’s perfectly normal to have that milky consistency on top. We’ve got that stirred, take my rubber float, get a little bit on a corner. It’s kind of hard, you don’t have a lot of room to work here, but you’re going to get the idea of what I’m doing, I’m going to be pressing the grout with the float, trying to fill the joint as much as I can.
You want to actually see it oozing over the side, if you can then you know you’ve got it nice and full, you’re going to drop some, it’s a good idea to have a drop cloth around your work area. Besides that you got enough in the joint itself, just run your float down on a bit of an angle to your line so that it doesn’t fall into the groove and damage it out. As you can see, I’m just going down on a bit of an angle, that just kind of floats it off straight level.
One key is, until you really get one like this, don’t do too much at a time, until you get a feel how quickly is drying and how that’s going to work out for you. I’m not sure if you can see this, but you can see the grout actually oozing a little on the side there, we’ll clean that up with the sponge as we go, that way you know you got the grout right back into the back of your line.Now I’m going to take my clean sponge and get it wet, you want to rinse as much of that water out as you can, you really need very little water, you just need a damp sponge. And try not to get wiping on the clean surface, that’s why the tape is there, we’re just trying to clean this up, I already feel that urethane sticking on the tiles, it just gives you an idea that we don’t want to do too many feet at a time, where you are just going to do scrubbing and scrubbing.
So you can see, I’m just giving that a quick wipe; on porcelain tiles is a little easier, it’s easy to clean, there’s no extra grout falling. I am going to rinse my sponge. I’m going to continue on up here. You’re just going to push it in there, working it into the joint. On a bigger wall, you’d be able to actually get some good motion. Here is a little tedious, you’ll have to go around all your edges. Get a good wipe, get any of the excess off the surface of the tile, make sure it’s cleaned up pretty good and that’s how you basically get all your joints done nice. I’m going to rinse this sponge once more, so it’s ready for next time.
In this application, on these edges here, you could use a strip, which is a brand name of a metal finish trim piece that could go along here, make the transition from your tile surface to your painted surface or whatever you’re using. In this case, we don’t have that so what I’ll do, I left my tape back about an eight of an inch, now I’m actually going to use my finger, you could use a stick, I’ll just use my finger, it’s as easy as anything. I’m actually going to finish that edge with a little bit of grout, I’m just roughly get into place for right now. This looks a little barbaric, but it’s really the best way to get it in there without having a big grout mess. So you’re going to push it in there, make sure you are packing it right back into the corner. Use your finger, whatever, just like I was using the trowel before, basically finishing it off, get it on the angle that you want.
Once you’ve got your area done, don’t do too much at a time. I would generally do more than this, but for what we are doing in here, this is good. Take your sponge again, give that a wipe, that first wipe kind of gets the major excess off, next wipe is going to finish it up. I just cleaned off what I squirted all over the tile. You can see the difference here now, from unfinished to finished. I’ll try to remove the tape fairly quickly after I do that edge, just to prevent peeling any paint. As you can see, as I am removing the tape, we have a nice clean edge and you can see the difference here where we have no grout to where we do have grout and it’s a nice finish, nice neat finish. Just try and keep your tools cleaned up, use as little water you need to, to do the cleaning, don’t let things dry, don’t let the grout too long in between the cleaning or you’re just doing a lot more work than you have to. I hope this was helpful and along with the video installing the tiles and now grouting the tiles, you should be able to do your job start to finish.
We are now continuing on from the previous post, Part 1 of removing drywall. I figured dumping too much info into a single post would be overwhelming. Remember, all these projects we’re looking at just need to be approached one step at a time. So with that, let’s keep going, shall we?
When you get to the outside corners, this one just has a protector on there for wallpaper, when you get to the outside corners, you can’t see it, but there’s going to be a metal cornet bead underneath there, so you’ll hear that when you kind of hit it. Once you get up to that, just kind of stop there, you’ll be good. I’ll just go back here and finish off this cut back to the other corner. Just like so. We made just first initial cut, this is just to give us a starting point to be able to get a hold of the drywall and start pulling it off.
One thing I forgot to do, on this plug in, you not only want to take the cover off, you want to take the plug in out. So remember, we’ve turned the power off here, so we don’t short anything out or get electrocuted. And I am just going to pull this plug right out and if it’s gotten enough wire to allow you to do it, just kind of tip it like that, that way when you pull this drywall off, shouldn’t get caught up on it and break the wire, do any damage to anything else.
So we’ve got that. So I made that cut, we’re just going to go to a spot in between studs. I think I got a stud there and one about here. If I had my little flat bar, you probably could just force it in there… This one is a little thick, but I can still get in there. You can see how I got that through the crack there, I’ve been able to pry the drywall out and I don’t want to stick my fingers in there, because the second I pulled this bar out, that’s going to want to spring back, the drywall is and pinch my fingers.
I just want to get my hammer in there to take up that space and you can see how that all piece, almost like a whole sheet wants to come off in this case. It won’t always do that, it might come off in smaller pieces, but this one looks like it’s going to come off pretty good. Generally, there will be some screws or nails holding it on, maybe a little bit of adhesive. Now that I’ve got it to a point where is kind of loose, I’m just going to pull. This one is going to come off really nice.
I’ll go back to this corner. This is what usually happens. You end up getting pieces like this. We’ve got wallpaper on here as well, so it’s making it a little more stubborn. For the most part, this whole piece is going to come off. That wasn’t that bad. We’ll get this out of the way. Now you can start to see what we are dealing with. Obviously, we’ve taken the drywall out of the back side already earlier. So we got that off.
When you’re doing your first side, you might still see drywall on the back side. But now we’re starting to see some of the electrical that could have caused us some issues, right there in that area. Luckily thing, we had it all turn off, so even if we did catch it, we shouldn’t have caused any problems. So we’ve got that main bottom part out, I’ll just see if this corner piece will come off without too much hassle. We’ve got that one off. Same thing with the top.
If you’re working by yourself, you probably don’t want this whole thing to come off in quite a big of a piece as the bottom did. So you might want to make a cut, just down here, like we did before. I am just going to do that quickly so this side it’s going to come off in a half decent chunk that’s manageable by one person. Okay, like that. We could just grab a hold and just start to peel away the pieces that want to come free.
You can see here that metal corner bead that I was talking about starting to be exposed now that the drywall came off, you can see that piece there that you can’t really cut through with that hand saw, so just be careful, that will be sharp as well. So we’re starting to get there. If you look up top, you’ll see, because I cut that with the knife, it should come away without causing too much damage to the ceiling. One more piece here. So you can see it opening up here, I’m just going to pull down a bit. Like so.
We’ve been able to remove it right up to the drywall ceiling, you can see we didn’t even disturbed the stipple that was on this existing ceiling here. If we would have not cut that and just start pulling away at it, you see how this paper is exposed here, that right there is actually the other half of it, up here on the ceiling, under that stipple. So that would have tried to peel away there, we would have caused damage. So same thing on this side, just going to see what comes off, what size pieces.
I don’t know if you noticed as I was doing this, there’s very few fasteners in it, they’ve actually, if you look here, you could see spots, spots on the studs. This is were they’ve put some beads of adhesive, held the sheet out there and then somebody came along and just basically, tucked it up. This would’ve been where the joint in the lower sheet and the upper sheet were, so they put a nail in each sheet. Looks like they put one in the middle and they’ve had a few up, so basically they just did the edges and one in the middle and then the adhesive held it in place.
So I think you’ve got a pretty good idea now, basically what to do. It’s important to have the safety glasses on as well because you might have noticed I’m pulling away there, there’s a bit of dust flying around, pieces of gypsum. If dust bothers you, you might even have a dust mask on, even just one of those cotton ones, because there is a little bit of dust in the air. Doing a small wall like this, it doesn’t stir up a lot, but if you’re doing a fair bit of a demo, there’s definitely going to be dust floating around so throw a mask on.
I don’t think there’s really anything else I can tell you, one you get this apart, you are just going to throw it in the garbage or take it to the landfill or wherever your municipal allows you to do with it and that would be all you can do. So hopefully this gave you a little more inside into what you’ll find, not only before you start the project, but once you finished it as far as seeing what the structure and what you could see inside the walls. So thanks for watching and tune in next time.
Today I am going to show you how to remove the drywall from this wall. It may sound like a pretty simple things and really it is. There’s a couple key things that a person should remember before they start a job like that. First of all, one of the things you want to look for is look for any electrical that might be in the wall, any signs that it could be electrical.
Obviously, down here we’ve got a receptacle so we know there’s going to be some wiring. We don’t know if it’s coming up through the floor to that receptacle or whether it’s actually above that. We don’t know. But at least we have an idea that there could be some wiring in there. So check all the way around, check the other side of the wall. In this case, I know there’s about three or four plugins and the switch over there, so we know there’s definitely going to be some wiring in there that we need to be careful of.
What I would do is find the appropriate breakers in your electrical panel, shut the power off to all those areas, just in case you happen to nick one, you don’t want to short something out, electrocute yourself or start a bit of a fire. That’s very important. Something else that could be in the wall, there could be plumbing in there, there could be water lines, drain lines, that sort of thing. Those are a little harder to find, but obviously, if you are cutting through a wall we’re going to tear the drywall off it, has a sink or something obviously to do with plumbing, you’re going to know that there should be something in there to be aware of too.
Not a bad idea to just turn the main water supply off, just in case, even if you’re not too sure whether there is anything there or not. So check those sorts of things. You want to remove any obstacles that are in the way. This grill I am going to take off down here, there’s a cold air return grill. So I am going to start with that, we’ll pop this off quick, get them out of our way. This grills overlap on to the drywall, so if you’d left them in place, you’re just going to end up bending the heck out of it trying to rip the drywall off.
So we got that out of the way. I’m also going to remove this piece of baseboard here. Another thing we want to do is, I’m just going to throw my safety glasses on, we are going to go up top and use the utility knife and make a cut right in the corner up here, where the drywall meets the ceiling. When this was originally finished, there would be a corner bead in there of paper that basically keeps that from cracking and showing up all the time.
So you want to cut that, because if you don’t and you’re going to pull the drywall off, it could rip that paper corner bead off partially back here, which wrecks your ceiling, if you’re trying to preserve the ceiling then you’re going to have a bunch of work patching it up. So, just like I said, knife sharp blade, put it right into that corner, make a pass all the way across a couple times. That would usually save a lot of aggravation so you don’t destroy the ceiling that you are trying not to.
So I cut all the way along there. Next thing I am going to want to do is take just a simple drywall saw and I am going to pick a spot, I usually pick three, four feet off the floor and I’ll jam the saw through the drywall carefully and start to make a cut. And I am going to cut all the way across the wall, it doesn’t have to be necessarily straight or anything. It’s just kind of a starting point, so you can kind of get a hold of the drywall.
With this type of saw, like I said, you want to pick a spot where you’re not going to be into a stud, so I can tell here I am kind of in a hollow area or a hollow sounding area, so I can put my saw in there and start away. So just put the point against the drywall, use the palm of your hand to kind of stab through and once you’re through, just start sawing away. You’ll feel as you cut along, as you come up to any obstacles. In this case, I could tell I’ve the edge of a stud there, I’m just going to flatten the angle of the saw, just a little bit more, until I get passed the stud and I kind of feel where the saw was able to move back again.
You don’t want to go too aggressive here.Like I said, there’s still going to be some wiring, possibly some plumbing inside of there, so if you go perpendicular to the wall and start making big strokes, you’re not going to be able to tell, you could catch a wire in there and you’ll have it either slashed or cut right off by the time you realized you did anything. So keep your blade out a little bit, on a little more of an angle, flat to the wall. That way, your blade isn’t protruding too far in there. So I am just going to keep cutting all the way along here.